This FAQ will be a useful addition to these instructions:
How to remove your speedo unit and a look at what is inside!

By Chewy22 Feb2005

******PLEASE FULLY READ THE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT THE CONVERSION********

www.chewys-stuff.co.uk

Required tools and materials:
1. Soldering iron. The point must be small (e.g. pencil point) and the soldering iron should be as low powered as possible; the lower the better 2. Fine solder which must be also as small as possible (0,25-0,5mm) in order to minimize the risk of damage to surrounding circuits.
3. The LED set. 4. An area free of static electricity.
5. A screwdriver to open the housing.
6 A small pair of tweezers 7 If possible solder removing tool (Solder sucker)
8 Time and plenty of patience!

NOTE: We (Chewy's Stuff) do not provide a warranty, since the changes you make are your own responsibility. If you cause damage it can be very expensive. Read all the instructions carefully start to finish before you begin. If you are not confident that you can complete the job then you can send us the tachometer and the LEDs and we will do the work for you, by arrangement. Sorry UNITED KINGDOM only. You may wish to consider using a  local competent electronics engineer to help you.

OK, so you've removed the speedo unit from the bike which will hopefully look like this:

Step 1:
Remove the 5 housing screws on the back around the housing

Step 2:
Now remove the cover from the tachometer

Step 3:
Loosen also the two screws beside the tachometer needle.

Step 4:
Now you must remove the tachometer needle. This is best done using two teaspoons as shown pressed against the screws, to lift the needle out without damaging the face.
NOTE*** lift it a little way up first before you totally remove it then gently tease the needle up over the 0rpm stop peg and make a note where it is pointing probably about the r position next to x1000. This is the starting point because it has a damping device fitted. Now remove the needle. As for re fitting the tachometer coil assembly (is held on by the two little screws on the tachometer) I would mark the top prior to removal as it can be fitted either way up

Step 5:
Since the display is not fixed in place, you can now carefully pull the white plastic cover out with the LCD display. Take care when pulling the liquid crystal display out. Its a glass screen and is so easily damaged, pull it out square and gently and you will be ok.
NOTE** The pins are about 15mm long.

Step 6:
Now remove the 8 old LEDs marked in blue in the picture by softening the existing solder. Proceed carefully, since the plate is easily damaged.
NOTE the LEDs are glued into place on the PCB board, De-solder LEDs then gently prize them off. Then clean the board of glue.

Step 7:
Replace the LEDs with the new blue ones and solder them carefully in place. IMPORTANT: Pay attention to the polarity of the LEDs else they will not light.

Step 8:
Examine the soldered connections from step 7. Here you must check that not too much or too little solder has been used. Too much solder and you risk of short circuiting the other soldered connections, too little solder and there is a danger of fracture due to vibration.

Step 9:
Now you can re-attach the plastic lid with the display. The pins must be pressed in firmly.

Step 10:
Before you attach the needle again, you must re-fasten the two small screws either side of the needle. The needle can then be replaced in the position marked in step 4. Before pressing firmly into place gently lift the needle back over the 0 rpm stop peg.
This should now be back to its original setting.

Step 11:
Re-assemble the tachometer. Then re-install on the motorcycle.
When you turn on the ignition the needle will jump up to about 7k rpm then reset to zero. If not then repeat step 10 before you continue with the installation.

If you have any questions or problems we are pleased to help with advice. E-Mail address
www.chewys-stuff.co.uk

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