|
Click for previous page
You now have a clear view of the old pads in place. To make room for
the new pads, which will be thicker because they are not worn,
insert a suitable tool between the old pads and gently ease them
apart until there is enough room for the caliper to fit back onto
the rotor with the new pads in place.
|
Be
very careful when doing this as you will be displacing brake
fluid back into the master cylinder and have the potential of an
overflow situation.
(AndyW
- to be safe, remove most of the fluid from the reservoir before
you start levering the pads and more if necessary, as you
proceed. I acquired some syringes which come in very
useful for this sort of job) |
 |
You are now ready to remove the old pads. Continue
to loosen the pad mounting pin until it can be removed. As the pin
is removed the old pads will drop out of the calipers so be careful
not to let them hit anything!
Once the old pads are removed carefully clean the inside of the
calipers with a suitable brush paying particular attention to around
the caliper pistons. Do not breath the dust in!
When suitably clean insert the new pads making
sure that the braking surface faces inwards!
Now refit the pad mounting pin to keep those new pads safely in
place. There is no need to fully tighten the pin just now - that can
be done more effectively after the caliper is refitted.
Carefully refit the caliper over the brake rotor by angling it in
the same way as when you removed it. If the caliper refuses to fit
it is because of the increased thickness of the new pads. Try to
ease the pads further apart but do remember to be gentle and keep an
eye on that master cylinder for overflows.
With your calipers back in place refit the caliper mounting bolts
and set your torque wrench to 26 N-m (2.6 kgf-m, 19.0 lb-ft).
Tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
There is no indicated torque setting for the pad mounting pin so I
used the same setting and tightened that at the same time.
To finish the job after replacing the brake pads,
pump the brake lever several times to check for proper brake
operation and then check the brake fluid level.
|
If all
has gone well your pads will grip the brake rotors and the lever
will stiffen up.
 |
 |
Here are some comparison pictures of the old and
new pads for your viewing pleasure.
After fitting I took the bike for a quick 10 mile spin. With bedding
the pads in in mind I took it really easy with the front brake
lever. Even with a feather light touch on the lever with one finger
the bike was pulling up a lot sharper than before. Rather than a
sliding, wooden feeling there was a more abrasive, gripping feeling
- very reasuring. Once I have completed 100 miles or so I will give
them a good tug and really put them to the test - I don't think I
will be disappointed.
 Click for previous page
Top |
