By AndyW 04/2005 (last update 24/04/2005)

If you're new to the SV1000 or thinking of buying don't get the wrong idea - the SV1000 is no worse than most motorcycles but remember it's a big V-Twin so in some respects may suffer more than an I4.

You know the saying "forewarned is forarmed" - well take note and check your bike regularly! Minor annoyances and cosmetic losses are one thing but you should check your bike over regularly anyway for safety's sake!! Poor maintenance can be to blame as well, nut/bolts not tightened to the correct torque setting etc.......check your bike over thoroughly if it's been in the bike shop

Regularly carry out a nuts and bolts checks and when doing any work on the bike use Thread Lock / Loctite on the threads of all bolts before replacing them.  NB: use medium strength thread lock - most are blue coloured - as the high strength (Red?) will trash Aluminium threads or make bolts almost impossible to remove. The high strength thread lock is intended for parts that will not be removed often, if ever. And invest in a Torque Wrench!

This page is a compilation from a thread I started on the sv1000.zyns forum........"Thought it would be a good idea to have a thread warning of items/bits that are easy to or liable to break. Maybe include stuff that just falls off as well! There's been a number of warnings posted from time to time.......please repost here so we have everything together"

AndyW 03/2005 - Radiator fixing bolt Doing up the lower radiator mount earlier and the bolt just sheared....hadn't even got to the point where I was tightening it! Luckily I could prize the radiator mount out the way and there was enough of the bolt stubb to get a grip on and unscrew it. Replaced with a stainless steel Allen bolt. I also lost one of the bolts that secures the primary sprocket cover some time back.

Whiteadam 03/2005 - oil cooler paint
The paint on my oil cooler has come off, I went to Crescent`s Bournemouth shop and was told that as I didn't buy the bike from them they didn't want to do anything about it, even though they have serviced the thing. News to come on the outcome of contacting Suzuki direct over the issue.
AndyW - this is really common especially with 'all weather' bikes.  Keep on top of it before corrosion starts, lots of guys have had replacement oil coolers under Warranty. Tip: Scottoiler FS365!  If needs be remove the oil cooler, before it gets bad and blow it over with a heat resistant paint.

Chewy22 03/2005 - oil cooler guard retaining bolt
One that’s been a right pain in the arse today, the bolt that holds the oil cooler cover that gets hit with all the road crap and no mater how you lube the threads it will still dry up and seize in its hole. Had to grind it off this morning and had to re tap it and replace it with an Allen socket head stainless one.

Chainsaw Willie 03/2005 - petrol filler cap ring
It is pretty easy, while re-installing, to break the ring that surrounds the fuel fill hole. I think two or three of us admit to having done this bonehead manoeuvre.

When removing the ring, note and keep track of which screw came out of which hole. They are NOT all the same length. If the screws are returned to the wrong holes the long ones will bottom out applying no clamping force. The short ones will clamp properly, but there will be uneven pressure around the ring. While tightening the last screw, a sudden "PINK" will be heard, accompanied by sudden appearance of a new crack, turning the ring into a "C".

TonyT 03/2005 - oil drain plug (bolt)
Don't forget the oil drain bolt thats very easy to strip the thread in the crankcase

JeffSV 03/2005 - fairing lowers brackets
And to all with the Suzuki lowers / Sliders installed. The slider brackets are usless, and will bend even if only dropped at low speeds. They need to be reinforced prior to installation to work properly.

DVS 03/2005 - various!
Fairing Support Brackets: On the S model, there is a support bracket for the front fairing, one on each side of the bike. Both of mine started to vibrate loose, you will need to raise the tank to access the bolts which are on the inside of the frame beside the airbox.
Exhaust Can End Screws: After modifying the stock exhausts, remember to tighten the end caps screws, they WILL vibrate off!
Throttle Position Sensor: Careful with the security torx head, it's very easy to strip the head.
 

Chainsaw Willie 03/2005 - side panel bolts
The screws that hold on the black side covers, between the tank-seat-bodywork, thread into the soft aluminum of the frame. It is very easy to damage these threads if the screw is contaminated, or if the holes are not aligned properly. Also the steel bolt - aluminum frame, junction is a point of corrosion due to the dis-similar metals. The threads are easily gauled or otherwise damaged, even while being carefull.

1. Keep the screw clean.
2. If it seems to be taking too much force to install the screw, STOP, something is wrong. Forcing it will make it worse.
3. Coat the threads with something to lubricate, and isolate the aluminum from the steel. At best this would be some Anti-Seize (Molybdenum Disulfide and Graphite), but some common grease works fine too.

Malkavian 03/2005 - TIP/HINT
Re the post above about the steel bolt and aluminum frame galling thats what anti seeze is for. Its recommended to put 'anti sieze' on any stainless bolt to prevent galling.
AndyW - 'Copperslip'? - I guess using a medium strength thread lock compound will cover this and keep nuts/bolts secure? I also spray bolts, exposed threads etc with WD40 which keeps corrosion at bay and helps stop the reaction you get between different metals.

Hung_mother 03/2005 - coolant reservoir retaining bolt
Checked over the bike today and found that the bolt that secures the coolant expansion tank was missing. UPDATE: Just found the missing screw whilst fitting my M4 system. It was sat at the back of the engine. Who says V twins vibrate? It's been sat there for around 200 miles!

Chainsaw Willie 03/2005 - brake and clutch reservoir cap retaining clips
The clip that secures the brake fluid reseviors on the brake and clutch master cylinders is notorious for falling off. A tiny dab of locktite, or finger nail polish, in the screw will keep it in place.

Amidroc 03/2005 - mirror bolt covers
After I installed Chewy's mirror spacers (awesome by the way) the buttons covering up the bolts fell out . I got new ones but they were a little loose so i had to put a dab of touch up paint from my Honda Civic to keep it in place. So far they have not fallen out.
AndyW - automotive silicone sealant is great for a myriad of jobs like this.

Preload 04/2005 - handlebar bolt covers
Also the covers of the handlebar bolts. Two of them fell off right after I added a handlebar spacer, a third fell off after I adjusted the spacer. I threw the fourth one away.

Tundra Tom 03/2005 - bar end bolts
How about the cheesy Phillips screws that hold the bar ends on. The stockers are tight as can be and locktight is also on the threads from the factory. Use a manual (hammer time!) impact screw driver to bust them loose the first time or you'll just strip the heads and replace them like me.
I might add use a torque wrench when possible and check the shop manual for torque ratings. There's a couple charts that cover allot of bolts on single pages.
AndyW - The head of one of mine stripped even using an impact driver. Managed to drill the head off without damaging the bar end and then unscrew the bolt stem with 'molegrips'

NS Dave 03/2005 - various!
I have had several things fall from the bike, the worst being the top left bolt holding the radiator on. That came off while riding and i drove most of the way back to the shop supporting the radiator with one hand- not impressed. I have also had the bolt holding the coolant reservoir fall off, 2 bolts from my hugger and both bolts holding my aftermarket rear right turn signal.
Though I mostly blame this on the mighty rumble and power of the engine (or the roads in Nova Scotia), I wonder if my dealer is torqueing them properly or if I was just neglecting to check in the past...anyhow now I am in the practice of preventative maintenance and just check as many bolts and removable as possible during cleaning.
AndyW - back to my comments at the head of this page ;-)

Bmeyer6472 03/2005 - stripped threads, chain guard bolts
[QUOTE=Chainsaw Willie!] "The screws that hold on the black side covers, between the tank-seat-bodywork, thread into the soft aluminum of the frame. It is very easy to damage these threads if the screw is contaminated, or if the holes are not aligned properly."
This applies to the screws that hold the chain guard on - I found out the hard way. Had to use a longer bolt and put a nut on it. Now there's ANOTHER nut on my bike!

Chainsaw Willie 03/2005 - TIP/HINT: Don't use red unless you REALLY mean it.
Quote: Originally Posted by malkavian
"it might be a good idea to put a little dab of red lock tite on these bolts that are vibrating loose."
Red is somewhat permanent. It requires a torch to dump enough heat to soften. It should only be used on things that it's critical that they never loosen, are unlikely to ever have a need to be purposely loosened and are accessible by torch with out damaging surrounding parts.
I used to use red on the bolt that retained the primary drive on my CR500. It backed out twice and the bolt bored its way through the case. The use of Red loctite was a last resort.
Blue loctite would be the correct thread locker for most applications. It holds strong enough, without effectively permanently gluing the threads together.

Afbluesv1k 03/2005 - throttle body pinch bolt
I am prepping my bike to get powder coated and I found a screw missing myself. Rear cylinder, the rubber boot between the throttle body and the cylinder, pinch clamp bolt/screwwas gone. Luckily when I got farther down in the teardown, I found the screw sitting in between the rear gear case and the frame. It looks like it was there for a while since there was a decent wear mark in the side of the screw from vibrating there against the frame

AndyW - TIP/HINT: Chewy's Stuff: - Chewy's stainless steel replacement bolt kits :-)

sv1k4animal 03/2005 - Rectifier retaining bolts
Lost one of it's two bolts completely, presumably just from the engine vibes, as it's directly bolted onto it. As I couldn't find a matching nut/bolt for it, I opted for new ones & washers. Should hold now, but the damn thing was hanging by one bolt for who-knows-how-long before I saw it.
Chewy22 - replace with 2 x M6 X 30mm socket head Allen bolts with washers to hold rectifier in place left hand side of bike.

TCinFI 04/2005 - TIP/HINT
Torque wrenches are a must but warning: if you are using the micrometer type, make sure you get them calibrated periodically and store them with the wrench set at the lowest torque setting. My buddy learned the hard way that an uncalibrated torque wrench is as bad as not using one.....Helicoils here we come.

Danci1973 04/2005 - brake calliper bolts I recently found out my bike was missing a bolt on the rear brake.

Hung_mother 04/2005 - pair valve inlet retaining bolts
Noticed yesterday that my PAIR mounting screw is missing, another one shaken loose! Oh well, it's coming off soon now the I have Chewy's Pair Removal Kit.

Oh..............things vibrating loose and falling off........worse case scenario:

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