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Based on an origianl FAQ by ICULQQK (amended/updated by AndyW)
Warning (for UK owners in particular)
Description
The lens appears to be the exact same shape as the stock tail light
as does the silver reflector on the in side of the light. The main
difference (other than it being clear) is rather than 2 rows of 7
LEDs there are 2 rows of 7 clusters, each cluster has 2 red and 2
amber LEDs (they look clear). The black plastic isn't OEM quality
but good none the less.
  

Instructions
| Step 1 |
As
mentioned in the description the tail light has 1 OEM style
connector for the rear light / stop light.
The
two yellow wires need to be spliced to the positive side of the
bike's indicator (turn signal) wiring.
The
light uses the brake lights ground so you use the yellow to a
positive and then attach a solid state resister from the pos to
the ground to fix the blink rate.
|
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| Step 2 |
|
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Unfortunately the
tail light unit is fairly difficult to get to so it's
recommended to remove the whole tail section. This can be done
by removing the following fasteners.
(2) Hex Side Cover Bolts
(2) Hex Seat Bolts (Remove Seat)
Pop Fastener Under Passenger Seat
Phillips Bolt Under Seat
(2) Bolts Holding Grab Rail
(2) Bolts Under Passenger Seat
(2) Bolts Under Seat
(6) Pop Fasteners in Undertail
Hex Bolt Holding Lock Cable. Disconnect Brake Light, License
Plate Light, and Both Turn Signals. Then you should be able to
remove the whole tail as a unit and reach the 4 bolts easily.
See: Removing the Seat Tail
Cover, Undertray and Rear Fender |
| Step 3 |
Swap the bushings out
of the stock light, reassemble everything, and your bike will
look like this. (If it is 2003 Silver SV650 with clip-ons,
Holeshot Highmount, and a Competition Werkes Undertail) |
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| Step 4 |
|
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Now you are ready to wire up your new
signals. See the wiring schematic below. 1st snap THE connector
into the brake light harness.
Then find your stock turn signals and cut the harness connectors
off (leave yourself plenty of wire on the connector end).
Next attach the NON-black/white wire to both the correct yellow
wire (turn the bike on, touch them together, and make sure the
correct light flashes) and the included resister.
Connect the other end of the resister to the loose black and
white wire on the pig tail you cut from the stock signal.
Wrap the whole bundle up in your favourite water proofing method
or a bunch of tape to make sure everything works and go for a
ride. |

AndyW: A WORD OF WARNING FOR UK RIDERS:
Swapping emails with ST on another matter so asked for his
professional opinion on these.......running with this setup in the
UK looks like it'll be pretty risky:
"The back lights do look good, I personally wouldn't pull anyone for
them but a traffic cop on a 'target bikers' mission would probably
do you, or at least give you a VDRS (defect rectification) which is
a ticket making you go to a mot test station to get the bike checked
and you have to get the ticket stamped.... so you end up paying the
mot bloke and have to produce the ticket to the cop shop.
The major problem will be if you were involved in an accident and
either your back lights or indicators have some involvement in the
factors of the collision. You could be put to blame as your bike was
not kitted out correctly for the road as per the construction and
use regulations. Your insurance company could refuse cover if the
mod has not been disclosed to them. Incidentally all mods have to be
disclosed and be compliant with construction and use
regulations........Some bobbies will give you a producer, wait for
you to produce and contact your insurance company to see if you have
disclosed the mods....... then you're in the shit as your policy
gets void and you will have a nightmare with the insurance world
getting cover again. They all swap their info and record it for
about 5 years.
And to top it all you get done by the police for no insurance as you
obtained your cover by pecuniary advantage."

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