By AndyW Jan2005

Reference: What is the PAIR system?

First a few words to cover Chewy's back!

****WARNING THIS MODIFICATION COULD INVALIDATE YOUR WARRANTY****
PERFORMANCE OF YOUR MOTORCYCLE WILL NOT BE AFFECTED

The kit

Basic instruction sheet Aluminium cylinder head block off plates Rubber blanking cap Pre-wired and sealed 10K ohm resister Two short lengths of 'heat-shrink insulation Two 'snap on' cable connectors * Four SS Allen bolts and washers A cable tie wrap! *Note: provided in case of need only - soldering the electrical connections is the best means of connecting the resistor using the 'heat-shrink' insulation to insulate the join.

Stage 1:  You'll need to remove the airbox first.

Stage 2:  OK, so the airbox is now removed with the PAIR pump/valve, the radiator released and the front cylinder PAIR hose is already disconnected. Next..............

First thing to do is remove the two reed valve air inlet covers, one from each cylinder head cover (camshaft cover). Just remove the plastic covers that the PAIR hose attaches too and leave the reed valves underneath in place as these incorporate a seal that Chewy's blanking plates will seal against.

There's not much room to work in and you'll need to take particular care not to damage any radiator fins when working on the front one (note advice in airbox removal FAQ re protecting the radiator fins).  The 8mm bolts are tight to unscrew as thread lock was applied on assembly - if you have a 3/8 socket set with mini ratchet you'll be glad!...and you'll appreciate why the lower radiator mount has been undone. You'll need to hold the bottom end of the radiator as far forward as possible to access the bolts. (The photo below was taken before the PAIR hose was removed with the airbox)

Now remove the PAIR hose (white arrow in the photo below) from the rear PAIR valve inlet. To access the retaining bolts you'll need to move the rubber heat shield out of the way - disconnect the electrical connector arrowed (red) and fold back the heat shield.

Install the blanking plates provided with Chewy's kit with the replacement Allen bolts and washers (5mm Allen key bit: Torque setting 10N-m / 7.0 lb-ft....not that you'll get a torque wrench in there without removing the radiator and fuel tank completely!).
I smeared a little grease very thinly around the mating surface of the blanking plate before locating it - note the indent on the underside of the blanking plate that aligns with the locating peg on the PAIR reed valve assembly. I recommend the use of some thread lock on the bolt threads!

You might like to sand and polish your blanking plates before installation if you're sad like me (not as sad as having them engraved with SV logos though ;-)

As things stand you'd get an FI system warning if you were to turn the ignition on as the ECU recognises the PAIR pump/valve is missing [ERROR (C49)], hence the inclusion of the pre-wired 10K ohm resistor with the kit which fools the ECU into not recognising the loss of the PAIR pump/valve.

Cut the electrical socket from the removed PAIR pump/valve and solder this to the resistor - use the heat shrink insulation provided to insulate the join. Although 'snap' connectors are included in the kit, if you don't have a soldering iron I recommend you borrow one.  Soldering is the safest and most secure/permanent means of making the new connections. You should end up with something like this (mine has some extra heat shrink insulation on it).

Before re-attaching this to the female PAIR electrical connector on the bike I folded the wiring over and secured it in place with another piece of heat shrink, see the photo below.

And now you'll see why.....and where I used the tie wrap.  Neat if I say so myself :-)
IAP sensor and PAIR wiring back in place ready for the IAP sensor to be re-attached to the airbox.

Before replacing the airbox, plug the hole where one of the PAIR hoses attached to the bottom of it with the black blanking cap provided and use one of the spare PAIR hose retaining clips to secure it. You will need to close up the spring clip first for a better fit, long nosed pliers are ideal for the job.

Reinstall the airbox - much simpler with the PAIR system gone!  Reconnect the green IAT sensor electrical connector and reattach the IAP sensor unit. Sit the airbox back on the throttle bodies. With the lid off and the filter out it's easy to ensure it's seated properly, tighten the retaining clip screws. Reattach the crank case breather hose.

Job done.......no more popping on over-run, shed some weight, airbox easier to remove in future, less 'plumbing', easier access to change the front cylinder spark plug....bargain!

Take the bike for a test run...........always a good idea to recheck everything is secure then.

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