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Suspension - Settings notes
Suspension - Members Settings
Suspension - The Black Art
GSXR Rear Shock Install

By AndyW: There are numerous shock preload spanners and adjuster tools - my tip would be to avoid the cheaper ones for instance the attachment shown bottom right in the picture below.  I've not used one but the 'scissor' type shown looks good.  The big issue is whether there is space to use the tool!.......I'm sure they'd all be fine with the shock removed and on the bench!

This is the tool I have but to be honest I got on better using the 'punch' and hammer method, you just need to take great care not to do any damage to the lock/adjuster rings.

Rear Preload adjustment by Simon.W 08/2004

If you are a bit heavier than the norm or in the habit of carrying a pillion or a fair bit of luggage you could benefit from adding a bit of pre-load to the rear shock. This is not of itself a difficult thing to do but can be fiddly as the adjuster is in an awkward place and not every body has the correct tool, a C spanner, as Suzuki failed to provide on in the tool kit. This is not an insurmountable hurdle as they can be bought for a few pounds/dollars etc.

It also helps if the weight can be taken off the rear suspension as well mainly because it makes it a bit easier. All references to left and right should be taken as if you are sat on the bike.

Step 1

Remove the bit of plastic which protects the shock from crud thrown up by the rear wheel. A 10mm socket will do this but space is a bit tight and it can be fiddly particularly for those with fingers like a pound of sausages. This part of the job is not essential but it does make life a lot easier.

Step 2

Release the top lock ring, most easily done from the left side. Take a longish screwdriver (with a blunt end) or socket extension bar, about 30cm length minimum and place the tip against one of the lugs on the top ring. Apply ever more aggressive taps from a hammer to the handle end until the ring releases in an anti-clockwise direction. When the ring is free, spin it up until a measurable gap of say 5mm is present between the two rings. Gauge the gap using the shank of a drill bit.
(AndyW, tip: brush off any dirt that may be on the threads of the shock body and soak the lock/adjuster rings with penetrating oil or WD40 the night before you intend to do this job - the rings tend to seize in place)

Step 3

Again from the left side of the bike, take the C spanner and placing the lug at the end behind one of the lugs on the lower ring, turn it in a clockwise direction until you have increased the gap by the desired amount. As to how much, this is a matter for personal taste, a bit like water in whisky. I added a further 5mm which I determined by gauging between the rings using a 10mm drill bit shank. If you want more then gauge using an even bigger drill bit
(AndyW - of course you might want to adjust the preload to achieve the ideal 'static sag' for your suspension but most road riders prefer the seat of the pants method!)

OR (if you do not have a c spanner)

Go around to the right hand side of the bike, set the tip of the aforementioned screwdriver against one of the lugs on the lower ring and tap away until the gap between the two rings is how you want it to be, gauge as above.

Step 4

Spin the top ring down on to the lower ring and make it finger tight on to the lower ring. Then from the right hand side of the bike place the tip of your screwdriver against one of the lugs, hit the handle with a hammer until the two rings tighten together.

Step 5

Refit the bit of plastic removed in step 1.

Et voila, rear preload increased, total time about 10 - 15 minutes. If on the other hand you are built like an anorexic jockey you can remove preload in similar fashion.
 

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