Tappet / Valve clearances should be checked every 15000m (24000km) or 2 years.

I recommend that you read the workshop manual procedure first (section 2.8) for the basic outline of this job before reading this detailed article.  TAPPET SHIM SELECTION TABLES (manual section 2.12)

By Spasonatwin 07/2004

Part 1 of 3, DISASSEMBLY AND MEASUREMENT

A)Tools:

• 1. Socket set from 10mm through 17mm with ratchet. If you plan on removing the radiator, get a 6mm as well for the hose clamps. Might be a good idea to have a 10mm box end wrench (or spanner, I think some folks call it) for the tough-to-get-to radiator bolts. Also the 'small' spark plug wrench (5/8" I -think-... can't remember atm)

• 2. A set of metric hex keys. If you can get/use a set that can be used with a ratchet as opposed to the 'Twisted bits of bar stock', it is -much- better. the largest you will need is the '10' size, while I believe the smallest is the ones used to remove the tank. size 6 is for the valve cover bolts.

• 3. A torque wrench. Newton/meters or inch/pounds are both acceptable.

• 4. RTV (black or orange.. no real difference)

• 5. A feeler/thickness gauge that can read from .1mm to .2mm to .3mm You want a set that will give you at least 3-4 readings in between those (ie .101 .127 .158 .179 .201 etc....). If you have to buy one, try to find one that is 'pre-bent or angled at the tip

• 6. The Suzuki Service Manual, available on the www.Sv1000.zyns.com forum. All the needed info is presented in the Periodic Maintenance and Engine Sections.

• 7. A pen and paper

• 8. A flashlight/droplight

B) Prep

The bike has to be STONE cold. Wait at least 6 hours after any running just to be sure. Try to find some overhead cover to work under (porch, garage, tree, whatever). If you plan on removing the radiator, you'll need 2 quarts of water + anitfreeze (Edit=AndyW; I recommend removing the radiator not only to give you extra working space but as the radiator fins are so easily damaged). There's no need for a bike stand, but feel free to use a swingarm stand if you have one. If you have a little stool/chair, that will make the job a bit more pleasant. Make sure you have a clean, dry place that you can place your removed components without being lost or mixed up. Everything is labelled when it comes out, but a lot can be said for laying things out the same way they come out of the engine. SET ASIDE AT LEAST AN AFTERNOON (4-6 hours) FOR THE PROJECT, one when the local bike shop is open. Make sure beforehand that they are willing to exchange tappet shims for you, or have a full set on hand so that you may purchase individual ones. Make sure you have a ride to said bike shop as well, hehe. At this point it wouldn't be a bad idea to enlist a buddy with some wrench turning/mechanical sympathy skills to help you out if you haven't done any sort of job this difficult before. It's not terribly hard, but two eyes, 4 ears, and 1+ brains is always a good thing here. When in doubt, refer to the service manual. You CANNOT do the job without those two sections, and it also tells you step-by-step how to do this job (or any, for that matter) as well.

c) Get dirty

1. Remove the seat and gas tank. None of the lines will leak more than a drop or two when you disconnect them, and are all different sizes (there should be no confusion with how they go back on). There is a 3-wire connector, two hoses, and a strange clip-type fitting for the primary fuel line. The bolt to remove the tank from the pivot hinge can be accessed from the right hand side of the bike; it screws and then pulls out, allowing you to remove the tank. Set it someplace you won't trip over it.

2. Remove or relocate the radiator. The job will be easier with it removed, but there will be some hassle later when you have to re-install it. I'd advise that you just remove the 3 bolts (one on the top left, and the two on the right) and the fan/horn wire connectors and try to push it out of the way down below the valve cover. If this can't be done, or screws with your ability to get at the valve cover, just remove it. Make sure you have a 2+ quart container to catch the coolant if you do.

3. Remove the valve covers. The front one is easy, just remove the spark plug wire, the pair valve hose, and the spark plug itself. Then remove the 4 hex bolts that hold it in place. There are little rubber seals on those bolts that may stick to the valve cover; do not lose/damage those... I'd say to gently take them off the cover if they don't come off with the bolt, and store them with the bolt. The seal will be pretty good, and the cover my require some 'tapping' to come off. Use a rubber mallet or cover it with a thick rage and GENTLY tap it while supporting the cover with your other hand. Do not pry with anything (read: flathead screwdriver/knife). The thing is magnesium, and will damage if you beat on it; the seal and/or sealing surface will damage if you pry on it. If/when the seals stick, don't tug on them or pull from a distance; apply gently direct pressure with your fingers. The fat part of the seal, the half moon shaped piece, will have some black RTV on it and may stick a bit more. Simply wiggle it back and forth with your fingers and it should peel off. The #2 valve cover is almost identical, except it has a sensor that must be unplugged (I had to use a tiny flathead to get it off), and a heat shield that must be pulled back in order to access the bolts. Clearance here is a bit tighter, but not to bad. Also remove the Generator plug cover (the fuckoff big #10 hex key thing on the left side crankcase) and the timing inspection plug (the #8 hex key plug that is further forward and up on the same cover).

4a. At this point you can inspect the tappet clearance. Make sure the bike is in neutral, and recheck to make sure the spark plugs are out. You have to rotate the engine to Top Dead Center on the Compression stroke. Do this by inserting a 17mm socket w/wrench in the hole left from removing the generator cover. Rotate COUNTERCLOCKWISE (this is in the normal running direction of the engine) until you can see F/T lined up with the mark on the timing inspection hole. There is an F/T and B/T... make sure you can see the difference. Use a flashlight if you have to. Once it is lined up, check and make sure the camshaft lobes are in the proper position (as per the picture in the Suzuki manual... under Chapter 2-9 in the Periodic maintenance section). This is how you tell the difference between TDC from exhaust or compression strokes. On the from cylinder, the lobes will face away from each other on the intake and exhaust cams in a mirror image fashion. (on the #2 cylinder, they will face towards each other in a similar fashion). When the #1 cylinder is a TDC compression stroke, you can measure the tappet clearance. Use your feeler/thickness gauge and measure the INTAKE first with the .100mm (or closest gauge. Some sets don't have it -exactly-; I had to use a .103mm or some crap like that) by inserting the gauge between the valve bucket and the camshaft lobe*. It should go through easily. Next try to run the .200mm gauge through. It should NOT go in easily (or at all, really). If this is true, that valve is fine, measure the other intake valve on that cam. If not, continue to try the next thickness up until you find the gauge that fits perfectly. Record that measurement on the paper (and I'd recommend that you draw a picture of the cylinder head, and label exactly which valve it is and what the measurement is), and then move to the next valve. Repeat this process on the exhaust cam, except use .200mm as a minimum, and .300mm as a maximum (as opposed to .100mm and .200mm for the intake). Again, record any out of spec valves. If all 4 valves are in spec (you lucky bastard), you may reassemble that valve cover, minus putting the spark plug back in (see later section for reassembly). In my experience, the exhaust valves will 'tighten up', or the clearance wil' reduce on the first service. Mine turned out to be in spec on the intake, and the exhaust had tightened to .16-.18 on both heads).

*The gauge should slide in between the two will little resistance, and slide between the two almost freely. You're looking for the thickness that gives you a sensation of 'mild dragging'... you should never have to force or tap the gauge in; it should slide with some resistance, like pressing your fingertip against a blackboard and running it down smoothly. Remember that you are inserting the gauge at an angle: Try to get the gauge as parallel to the bucket as you can, usually by bending the gauge with your free finger and pushing with the other. You'll notice as you do that that it will slide easier back and forth. You should take your measurement that way if you can. Note that some feeler gauges have 'pre-angled' pieces for things like this. I didn't have one, but it would have been real nice if I did.

4b. Rotate the engine to TDC Compression on the #2 cylinder. Do this the same way as #1, but look for the timing mark B/T, and make sure the cam lobes are in the proper position. Measure the tappet clearances in the same way as #1 cylinder, making sure again to get the gauge as flat as you can when you slide it in. This may or may not be a bit more tricky from this angle, as the #2 head is a bit more tucked in there. It doesn't matter which side of the lobe you insert the gauge from, but I found doing it opposite from the direction of the way the lobe was pointing to be a bit easier. Annotate any out-of-spec valves on your diagram.

4c. At this point, if your valves are all in spec, you can skip to reassembly. Consider yourself lucky, and have a beer. If not, prepare for the part where you have to pay close attention, and get a beer anyway.... and read Part 2.

Part 2 8

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