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Part 2 - Camshaft/shim removal and installation If you're reading this far, you've found one or
more tappet clearances out of spec. At this point you need to be
able to exchange and/or buy new shims. Expect to pay up to $7 USD a
shim; but most dealer service places will exchange if you ask
nicely. If for some reason you cannot get the shims immediately
(they're out of the right size, or they have to be ordered), you may
have to reassemble the bike or leave it disassembled until they
arrive. This is not the end of the world; it gets easier the more
you take it apart and put it back together, and no real harm will
come of riding a few more days if you must. Either way, you (or
anyone else... the dealer themselves would have to keep it 'For a
few Days' if they were out anyway; at least you're not paying for
storage fees at your own home, eh?) have to remove the shims to see
what size you're going to need. In my experience, each cam will have
have the same size shim, but the different cams will have different
sizes (ie: you'll have to get them in pairs).
A) Remove the offending camshaft.
1.Now this is really easy, but special attention is required when
you reinstall them. The more things you pay attention to now, the
easier it will be later. Each cam is labelled exhaust and intake, as
well as which cylinder it lives in. I'd recommend that you take them
out and place them so you don't have to read the markings: put the
front cam(s) in front of the bike.... put the #2 cams behind the
bike, etc. If a cylinder needs BOTH intake and exhaust cams
adjusted, read note below*. If you have to remove a cam on each
cylinder, start with the #1 piston (front), remove the shims, then
move to the #2 (rear) piston. Follow the below instructions for
rotating the engine to the appropriate places.
And the Rear...
Note: that last picture is as viewed from the RIGHT side of
the bike. When you reinstall the #2 cylinder cam, you will be
viewing it from the other side. There will be a picture in the
section further on that illustrates that: It is the mirror image of
this picture because it is viewed from the LEFT side... try not to
let the picture HERE confuse you on reinstallation.
Four bolts remove the C-shaped clamp that holds the cam in place.
Remove these bolts a 1/4 turn at a time, in a cross-like pattern
(the way you would tighten lug nuts on a car rim, just in reverse).
If the clamp is stuck on after the bolts come out, support the cam
and clamp with your other hand, and GENTLY tap the clamp with a
rubber hammer or a well wrapped screwdriver wrench. Do not pry,
beat, kick, or blast the clamp out of there... it is soft metal that
you do not want to bend, and has loose pins which can be easily
lost. Remove the clamp very slowly... THERE ARE TWO DOWEL PINS ON
THE INSIDE OF THE C-CLAMP: DO NOT LET THEM DROP INTO THE CRANKCASE.
Once the cam is out, use a magnet to remove the valve bucket
SLOWLY... the shim is directly underneath, and may or may not come
loose with it. If not, remove the offending shim with said magnet.
The shim will be an approx 1/4 inch circular disk with a barely
visible number on it (seen as the light spot in the middle of the
dark circle under the bucket in the picture below). Note the size
stamped/etched on the shim. Write this number down on your diagram,
noting which cylinder, cam, and valve it came from (I again
recommend that you draw a little picture and label it). Do this for
the other shim on the same cam.
Follow the instructions and rotate the engine (as shown above) if
you need to remove shims on the other cylinder. Remove and annotate
those shims. Now cover up your parts and exposed motorcycle
internals and get ready to take a trip to the shop.
*I would recommend that you only remove ONE CAM AT A TIME PER
CYLINDER (feel free to take a cam out of both cylinders, just not
both of the cams in the same head). This will insure that the other
cam keeps the timing chain/gear in place, and will also give a solid
reference for the cam timing when you reinstall them later. The cam
chain for each cylinder (there is one for each) does not directly
act on the cams; it turns a gear, which in turn turns the cams.
Leaving one cam in will keep it all in place. If you must remove
both, take one out and remove the shims, then reinstall it EXACTLY
as it was before. Then remove the other cam and shims. If this is
too much work for you, or you feel you can time/phase both cams in
on your own, then refer to the Suzuki shop manual for instructions.
2. Refer to the charts below for the shim size you need. Note that
the intake and exhaust have different charts. Your current shim size
is the top (horizontal) column, and the clearance you measured is
the left side (vertical) column. If you have a 'half size' shim (I
had a 2.92 shim), you may have to do a bit of math. Simply subtract
the half size (in this case, that's .02) from the measured tappet
clearance column, and use the chart to find the right shim.
Likewise, if your dealer doesn't have the 2.95 shim you need, but
has a 2.92, do the math to see if it will fit. The object here is to
get the clearance back within the acceptable .100mm range for either
intake (.1-.2) or exhaust (.2-.3) valves; and I'd recommend that you
shoot for .12-.18 intake, and .22-.28 exhaust if you have to do your
own math). See Workshop Manual Sections XX & XX
for Shim Tables Now head off and go get the shims
you need..
B) Installing shims and camshafts
1a. Ok, you have your 'new' shims now. Start on the last cam you
removed, and fully install the shims and cam before moving to the
next cylinder. Makes sure all parts are clean and have a light coat
of engine oil on them prior to installation. Smear a dab of grease
on the shim you're going to install (just a precaution... it will
keep the shim in place while you install the bucket. Probably not at
all required, but made me feel better) and place it number side up
back in its little hole it came out of. Replace the bucket on top.
Now the camshaft... this is the tricky part. Rotate the engine so
the F/T mark is in line, and the camshaft lobes and Engraved Lines
are in the
position shown here in this picture (rear) viewed from the left side
of the bike:
If the #2 cylinder did not need adjustment, skip to the #1 cylinder
instructions. Install the cam on the #2 cylinder with the cam in the
-exact- position shown in the first illustration. Note the 'Engraved
Lines' will be exactly parallel to the valve cover gasket surface,
with the cam lobes pointing in the direction shown by the arrows.
The cam you reinstall will be a FRACTION of a mm from being
parallel; the reason for this can be seen on the end of the cam.
There are two sets of teeth on the end of the cam gear, one of which
is spring loaded. When the cam is torqued back into place, the gears
will automatically align themselves again. Once the cam is in
properly, carefully insert the dowels, and pace the C-clamp back
into place. VERY CAREFULLY begin to torque down the bolts, 1/4 turn
at a time on a cross/diagonal pattern until they are : 10 N.m (1.0
kgf-m, 7.0 ). Once installed, check the tappet clearance again. It
should be ready to go.
1b. The #1 cylinder should be rotated to look like this when viewed
from the right side of the bike:
Notice the F/T marking and the position of the cam lobes. Repeat the
same installation process as you would have done on the #2 cylinder
(above). Check the tappet clearances once everything is torqued down
properly, and you should be ready to rock 'n roll.
You've made it this far? Good stuff, that's is hard as it gets.
Double check to make sure you didn't leave anything in the cylinder
head and get read to reassemble the rest of the bike.... in part 3
(to come...soon!)
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