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Brake lines (AndyW)
Anodised aluminium / aluminium fittings are for competition use only
and are not legal for road use.
Never Use Aluminium Fittings On Braking Systems (extract from
HEL's website)
"Some people sell aluminium brake line fittings for brake hoses.
Not only is this a dangerous practice but you will also notice that
they are normally sold with a 'for race use only' label as a
possible legal get out clause for the company involved.
HEL Performance have never and will never use aluminium fittings on
brake lines - Why ? When two metals with different electromotive
force are placed together and are subjected to an electrically
conductive fluid, 'electrolytic' corrosion takes place. If you are
looking for a light weight, corrosion resistant high strength
alternative to stainless steel then we suggest you check out the HEL
Performance Titanium fitting"
Chain Lubing
Try lubing after a ride. The chain is warmer and the lube can sneak
into the tiny gaps (wipe the chain over first with a rag soaked in
WD40). Then overnight the lube will 'dry' and will be much less
likely to fling on your next ride. Lubing just before a ride doesn't
allow time for the lube to gel and guarantees fling. Also with an
O-ring chain you just need enough lube to cover the rollers. The
sideplates and pins have lube in them sealed by the O-ring. Don't
bother lubing the sideplates, unless you have installed a non-O-ring
chain or you'll be riding in wet or salty conditions. Do a Google
search on chain lubing for lots of info. Getting Chain Lube Off
The Rear Wheel
WD40 is the excellent stuff for removing chain lube. To avoid lubing
the rear brake instead of directly spraying the wheel, spray into a
small piece of rag, saturate it, then wipe the WD40 on the wheel.
Wait 5 minutes and wipe the WD40 off. WD40 is a great cleaner, but
never mistake it for a lubricant.
Pledge Orange and similar household furniture polishes are great to!
Clutch / Brake Master Cylinders
The plastic reservoir on my clutch master cylinder is busted off. It
doesn't appear that this part can be bought separately from the
whole assembly. Anybody have one to sell, or know if an alternative
source for one?
matthole - Try using a clutch master cylinder from a Hayabusa.
It looks better and uses the same inner workings and lever as the SV.
Snag a matching front brake master cylinder from a Busa and you have
a nice pair of master cylinders. BTW, the SV front brake master
cylinder uses the same inner workings and lever as the Busa. Colour
Silver is fastest ;-) Does
the SV1000 have a slipper clutch?
Not exactly.....Suzuki calls it a "back torque limiting clutch
system" but kinda the same idea.
The SV1000 is fitted with a back torque limiting clutch system which
we might refer to as a slipper clutch. It is designed to decrease
pressure on the clutch plates during deceleration to help downshifts
and also to increase pressure during acceleration allowing for
lighter springs.
GSXR Wheels
Which GSXR wheels fit the SV?
GSXR600/750: 2000 -
2003 GSXR 1000: 2000 - 2002
(And why would you need to know this? - spare wheels for racing or
to replace a pranged wheel. GSXR wheels are more freely available
and therefore cheaper than SV wheels, assuming you could find
second-hand SV wheels)
GSXR 1000 / 750 Shocks
The GSXR1000 shock is the preference especially shocks from K3
onwards gixxers.
Unfortunately gixxer shocks will not fit the Naked SV due to the
location of the toolbox on N models.
O Sensor for American SV's?
Now that I've fitted my race cans and/or modded my Airbox would it
be a good idea to fit an O sensor (as fitted to the European bikes)
to help the ECU adjust for the changes?
No!........and yes: whilst it could be done the
cost and effort involved for the small benefit make the idea a non
starter in comparison to the gains you'd see from installing a PCIII
(See FAQ's for more info.)
Maintenance Tip
Always tie your front brake down so the bike won't move forward and
slide off the side stand. If the bike moves it tends to fold the
kickstand up and thats a no no. Binding the front brake has always
worked well for me. Ride safe....Les (lesbrownjr59)
No
Time for a Proper Polish Job?
Use a spray household wax furniture polish - spray on to a clean rag
to avoid overspray you'd get applying direct to the bike. Quick wipe
over, leave a few minutes and buff up.....quick, effective and
effortless.
I've found I can just wipe away any tarnish or water marks on my
Titanium cans with Pledge Orange (and I guess any Orange polish),
much easier than conventional auto polish.
Pillion / Passenger Seat Lock Removal (Bayouboy)
No need to take the lock apart, just orient the lock so the part of
the spring that sticks out of the top lines up with the locking
notch in the retainer clip (like I show in the photo below). Then
the lock comes right out.
Protecting Your Paintwork
Check out Tank Slapper Kits at
www.thetankslapper.biz - recommended by lots of members
Scottoilers
If you've mounted the reservoir under the pillion seat make sure
that anything carried in that space such as your tool kit cannot
move around. I nearly had a crash due to my tool kit moving around
and adjusting the oil flow up to max.......rear tyre soaked in oil!!
(AndyW)
Side Stand
The SV650 stand fits and is about 10mm shorter than the SV1000 stand
(K3 -K4?) but the coat-hanger will need to be bent to clear the
exhaust
Speedo Sensor Rotar Nut
Check that the Allen bolt securing the Speedo Sensor Rotar Nut is
secure - several members have reported losing the nut, sometimes
with damage to the Speed Sensor and casing etc. (more...)
Thread Lock
The SV has a tendency to shake some bits loose - regularly carry out
a nuts & bolts check and when doing any work on the bike use Thread Lock on the
threads of all bolts before replacing them. And invest in a
Torque Wrench.
Tundra Tom: NB: use medium strength thread lock -most are blue
colored - as the high strength (Red?) will trash Aluminium threads.
The high strength is intended for parts that will not be removed
often, if ever.
Throttle body collar
Owners need to check the clamps securing the throttle body collar.
Those clamps will vibrate loose just like everything else can I
suppose.
Mine "blew off" the front cylinder and scared the stuff out of me.
The bike sounded like it had dropped a cylinder. After two hours of
checking everything I caught the throttlebody shift when the airbox
was moved by my son. Slid the collar back on, tightened the clamp
and the bike fired right up.
Just and FYI.......Cheers SV Dave
Tip-Over Sensor - where is it?
That's easy......................
Tool Kit
Additional items to carry with you: a number of various sized
tie wraps, roll of insulating tape, piece of rag, pen torch
Tool Kit - stop it moving around
If you have a fender eliminator (i.e. lost the tool kit strap
retaining points you can put the tool kit in between the two upright
plastic pieces that come up from the undertray at the front of the
rear seat space, carry my tool kit there all the time and it hasn't
moved yet (Finley)
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