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By Peter Rose 06/2004 I
have just returned from a week's holiday in France on my SV1000.
Here is my report which maybe of help to anyone else thinking of
doing a similar trip........... I booked with
Hoverspeed from Dover to Calais as they were the cheapest I found at
£ 92.00 return. Time on the boat was only one hour and they were
fine about letting me on an earlier boat on my return. They tied my
bike down real tight, no damage etc.
I did a total of 2306 miles in seven days, one day was spent on the
beach so really an average of 383 miles a day. I didn't think this
sounded much but I wouldn't aim to do this much again.
All this was at a much higher speed than I could do here in England
as the roads were in much better condition generally, a lot less
traffic and I only saw 3 radar speed traps the whole time. Note that
2 of these were in towns where I believe they are stricter, luckily
I was going slow as I was looking for direction signs. The other was
a couple of miles outside a town on a twisty mountain road just were
the first straight bit for miles appeared, obviously everyone goes
to overtake whatever they have been stuck behind for the last 15
minutes and Zap, your nicked. Luckily I was " flashed" by a couple
of cars coming the other way just as I nailed it in 4th.
The other thing that stood out was how the car drivers all pull over
to let you pass, from what I saw they are much better/considerate
drivers than UK drivers.
About 23 years ago I did several holidays, one on a motorbike, all
over France but the one area I hadn't done was the Massif Central
Mountains. My route was from Calais down to Paris around the west
side down to Chartres, Orleans,Vierzon, Chateauroux and then a small
town La Chatre onto the D940 to my first booked accommodation at
L'Augette Guest House (0330 254 3011 64). (Edit
AndyW: found their web site......really nice place -
www.augettefrance.com)
The roads down to this point were fast but unexciting, from my house
in Norfolk to here was 600 miles, the last 200 were sore backside
time!
Two 'Pauls' run the guest house, they are English and bikers, the
room was huge and the en-suite bathroom massive, clean with a super
comfortable bed. Paul can cook. My wife is an award winning chef so
I know good food and it was superb. They have safe parking and
lovely big garden beautifully landscaped to relax in. This is a
superb place to stay on the first and last night on the way down
through France.
Next day was down the D940 all the way to Tulle, note, this is the
BEST ROAD I HAVE EVER RIDDEN. in 28 years. Imagine 100 miles of
undulating hills, water falls, forest with long, long 80 - 105 mph
smooth sweeping bends, lent well over for several seconds before
straightening up just for 50 -100 yards before dropping into
another.
4th and 5th gear uphill and 5th (for the engine breaking) downhill,
going under rocky outcrops like half a tunnel, smooth tarmac, no
nasty tightening up bends, very little traffic, mile after mile,
after mile.
I then went across to Aurillac, Figeac and Rodez all extremely good
roads, mind blowing views, loads of sweeping twisties again. Popped
into a Small hotel, one of many, cheap at 45 Euros, £30 including
breakfast.
Then down N88 to Albi, Toulouse, N113 turn of for Foix, D117 to
Perpignan and stopped two nights with Nigel at his B&B there.
Contact him at
www.motorcycletoursfrance.co.uk he has several e-mail numbers
and web sites as he has his finger in several pies. (Edit AndyW:
that doesn't surprise me! ;-)....and for anyone that hasn't made the
association, it was Nigel that set up the SV1000 monthly meet at
Popham Airfield, before he opted for the easy life in France)
Nigel & Maz are still doing up their place and it will feature pool
and or Jacuzzi, even more bedrooms and bathrooms than it has at the
moment. They have a huge Garage, you could park several cars boats
and caravans in it. The view from their Garden and dining room is of
snow covered mountains and they are only 15 mins from several
beaches. There is a special restaurant an hours
riding up into the hills, owned by a biking enthusiast who owns
about 25 bikes, MV's, Ducati's some never started, all special or
rare including a couple that are worth around £50,000 each. When I
was there about 17 MV owners from Germany were going there for a
meal and visit his museum.
The owner ( forget his name !!!!!) had a meal with us at Nigel's one
evening, good food, good company and I was invited to his place next
day. Unfortunately I was knackered after 1200 miles in 3 days, just
wanted to chill out on the beach. Missed out there but I'll be going
back next year and will allow time for it then.
Maz told me of the best beach nearby and I spent a great day there.
Got badly sunburnt, beware !! Nigel took me to an Irish bar run by
the loudest, campest gay guy ever. It's a must visit but be prepared
to have your nipples fondled, his drinks put on your bill, steals
your fags ( no pun intended ). then drops his trousers and tells
potential customers to f*%k off as he wont serve old people,
druggies, women, ugly people etc etc.. needless to say his bar is
the most packed in the area. In England he would be arrested, in
France he is an entertaining evening.
Oh yeah, Nigel has a fastest Copper SV like me but I believe he does
allow the odd Silver or Blue one to stay, (just park it round the
back out of sight!)
"A Peter Rose between two thorns!"
(AndyW: sorry, couldn't resist pinching that quote from the forum
Pete) I then returned on a similar route up past
Toulouse but then stayed on the N20 and A20 main roads all the way
up to Paris, missed some goods roads that way but wanted to put some
fast miles behind me. Stopped somewhere on route at a nice 4 * hotel
with outside luxury swimming pool etc, expensive at about 75 euro
but to shagged out to care. Then up to Paris next day and stayed in
a roadside hotel, Premier I think they were called, 31 euros per
ROOM which can sleep 3 adults or 2 adults 2 kids. Small but clean
with TV, shower etc. Breakfast for only 4 euros.
Facts and figures........
I did 2306 miles and this brought my total mileage to 4701, my rear
Michelin Pilot Sport was down to no tread at the very centre, front
was fine. So with the first 1200 miles of running in, another 1200
normal riding then the FAST 2306 France miles that's not bad. I have
just fitted some Metzeler Roadtec's as a pair, Nigel had them on and
rated them highly. Cost £225 fitted.
On the good main roads most traffic goes along at 100 mph even
little Peugot 205 diesels, many in the middle lane at 110 + mph. so
I started cruising at 110 so I wouldn't stand out to any Police.
After a few hours seeing no Police except two motorcycle cops who
pulled onto the motorway and went off at 130 mph, I increased my
cruising speed first to 120, then 130, then bursts up to 145/155 and
finally down on the tank.......an all time best of 164 mph with a
full ruck sack on my back.
Experimented in 5th gear and it pulled to 155 mph, which was also
the normal top speed into strong head winds, hills, sitting upright/
two up ,etc for top gear.
Cruising over 120 mph for hours on end gives you neck ache from the
wind pressure on your helmet. also the level of concentration
required soon begins to tire you out. So I found 7000 rpm / 114 mph
a good compromise.
At these speeds I was getting the fuel warning light come on at 90
-95 miles. This worked out at about 32 mpg !!!!! So every 40 minutes
you have to start looking for fuel.
Over the mountains on the twisty roads probably got nearer 38 - 40
mpg but best was one damp day, traffic, tired so just doing 50 -80
mph, got 135 miles before the fuel light came on and got 47 mpg.
This is quite a variation, generally it drinks the petrol over 6 -
7000 rpm.
Petrol is cheaper, I was putting 97 / 98 octane as it was cheap and
I was using the performance more. Basically everything is cheaper
than the UK. The French tax earnings at around 40% so that's where
they get hit. So if you retire over there you'll be better off. Saw
normal size 3 bed semi on edge of beautiful lake (like the
garden disappeared into it) in the Massif Central Mts at 50.000
euros or £30,000 ish. A small bedsit apartment overlooking the beach
with views of Pyrenees at £ 50,000 and a 4/5 bed modern semi, big
garden near Nigel's at £ 180,000.
Please take ear plugs if you do a long trip, you'll NEED them, I
took a small first aid kit, with spare bulbs in as by law you're
supposed to have them, your insurance could be INVALID without
these. I also put headlight beam deflectors on, £5.00 from your
local car shop. A can of tyre weld, the compressed foam that
re-inflates and seals a flat tyre. All your documents i.e. driving
licence, vehicle ownership papers, insurance docs etc, again LEGALLY
required in France. However, no one else I met over there had
bothered......am I an old fart or is everyone else stupid ? IF I had
an accident and the Police were called, I could have been done for
several things and ended up not being covered by my insurance......
!!!!! Your choice.
Met one young English guy who had purchased his OLD VFR400 the day
before his trip, the chain was stretched so much it was rubbing
against the exhaust pipe, he didn't have any tools to adjust it, etc
etc.. a disaster waiting to happen.
Petrol stations off the motorways close on Sundays, some don't take
cash or English credit cards. Take plenty of cash and a local will
fill up on his credit card for you.
I also had that stuff in my tyres that has fibres in it, remains
liquid until you have a puncture then seals it instantly. Also
supposed to help tyre life by making tyre run cooler. I didn't fancy
being stuck 100's miles from anywhere with a flat.
Please feel free to contact me on
peter.rosesv1000s-SPAMOFF-btopenworld.com (don't want you getting
'spammed' Pete - any emails to Pete, replace -SPAMOFF- with @) with
any questions............ Peter Rose. Forgot to
mention........some tips:
Allow 60 - 70 Euros per night to be safe.
2400 miles at average 38 mpg = 64 gals of petrol = 250 Euros plus
motorway tolls, say 300 euros.
Food and emergency money i.e. replacement tyre, etc 300 Euros.
Split money between wallet, luggage, hide in bike in case one gets
lost/stolen.
My watch has a compass , a gimmick I know but it helped me when I
was lost a few times , say at a cross roads, which way is South ?
good for general directions, a cheap compass would do.
Leaving your underpants OFF helped stop sore saddle bum, don't know
why, but it made big difference. (AndyW: .....and convenient if you
pull!)
Take less clothes than you think you'll need as it's easy to wash
out tee shirts, socks etc.
Know your credit card 4 digit number (PIN) as some places you don't
sign a piece of paper , you enter your number instead.
Couple of packets of wet wipes or baby wipes to clean your visor, a
" need to do " at every petrol stop. (AndyW: .....and again
convenient if you pull!)
Twice I started off in the morning on the wrong side of the
road...... " what's that pratt doing on my side ? OOOhhh er !! SHIT
!!!!!"....... easy done on empty roads and leaving fuel stops.
No matter how hot it is please keep all your gear on, I've seen
inside a French hospital and several NASTY skid rashes with guys
riding in tee shirts and shorts.
IT AIN'T WORTH IT.
Sun tan cream, even if just for one day.
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